Japan Day 14: Monday 20 March
Fri, Aug. 4th, 2017 11:36 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
annarti
Day 14, featuring Asakusa Shrine, sushi, the Edo-Tokyo Museum and Akihabara by night.
First up, most important part of the whole holiday, The Handbag Saga came to its happy conclusion: Cassie was reunited with the overnight-shipped handbag, still with everything including cash in-tact. OH HAPPY DAY. Omfg it was such a relief.
Around the suburban streets of Ikebukuro, the suburb where our hotel was. Note the teenytiny street, MASSES of power lines, complete lack of cars but at least four bikes in just that one shot, and the vending machine. Also they're not skyscrapers. I just realise I never took a photo of our roadside shrine D:
En route to the Asakusa Shrine, we stopped to get another crèpe from a place with about 300 different options, no exaggeration, and a hell of a queue, though every eatery in Tokyo has that, including Macca's, so whatever. I had raspberry. It was amazing. This here is right outside the shrine--the entrance is just behind the tree on the left.
This is not Tokyo Tower, but the Tokyo Skytree, which is about twice the height of the Eiffel Tower. Also blue sky again! Didn't last. It never seems to in Japan, always gets cloudy/rainy by the afternoon.
It was a public holiday that Monday, so the shrine was PACKED. Luckily I am stupid-toll-u gaijin and can see over everyone's heads.
Giant lantern at the gate to the shrine.
LOOK IT'S SPRING SEE ALL THE CHERRY BLOSSOMS it was fake. So this is the street of shops leading up to the shrine itself that you can see right at the end. Featuring Cassie in the blue coat, and her friend from uni next to her, Evelyn, who accompanied us for lunch.
Down towards the second gate at the other end of the shops.
I swear the gates could be shrines in their own right sometimes.
And Senso-ji itself!
Senso-ji is big on the massive giant lanterns for some reason.
Paintings on the ceiling inside, featuring a dragon!
Asakusa Shrine, right alongside the temple. Or possibly part of the same grounds. Shinto and Buddhism are so hip and groovy with each other. Why can't other religions live this way?
Also just to the left were festival food stalls, which of course meant dango. There was also a stall selling chocolate dipped bananas, so of course I had one of them, too X9 We then spent some time just wandering around the Asakusa district, completely aimless, just looking at shops and sights and whatever came up, taking photos in random stick-your-face-here things, as you do in Japan (these things are EVERYWHERE I cannot overstate this). We sorta got lost? I mean, we attempted to, but there's really only so lost you can get when on foot and with Google in your pocket. But it really was just a case of 'let's turn left here!' 'Okay!' and see what came of it. And thennnn lunch!
KAPPA SUSHI. IT WAS SO COOL. Sushi trains for us (and I assume the rest of the Western world, but just in case) are a conveyor belt that goes around in a circle, with the chefs in the middle who just whack on a plate whatever they feel like and chuck it on the belt, then you grab what you want as it trains past. You can ask for something specific from the menu, too, if you like. Kappa sushi was SO techy, as you really would expect from Japan until you've been there for two weeks and realise half the places don't even take a credit card.
So Kappa Sushi has a touch screen in front of you and you pick what you want from the menu, handily enough with English. They make it up out the back, stick it on the conveyor belt, and it WHIZZES out from the kitchen and stops right in front of you. The screen goes 'bing!' and tells you your dish has arrived, then says 'thank you' when you pick it up. ashdhgghlkjasd Japaaaaaan.
So here we have most of what I ordered? I think I got one or two more. Like I realised at this point that I hadn't gotten any actual sushi rolls. Down the front, three grades of tuna nigiri; in the middle, aburi salmon (my favourite thing from Sushi Train so I HAD to try it in Japan. Salmon with mayonnaise and blowtorched to just sear the very top of it. Happy to say Sushi Train matches up) and... I think it was squid but it kinda looks more like octopus, with cracked pepper; up the back, ships with salmon roe and cucumber, and sea urchin! I've only 'had' sea urchin once before, when Mum found it at the Central Markets, having heard it's supposed to taste like the sea. That one smelt like badly off seafood, because it was, so we didn't eat it. THIS ONE was so fresh and creamy and yes, tasted like the sea. Mum was most jealous X3 On the left, I forget the proper name for it (I'll let Cassie chip in then update this) but it's basically seafood custard--bits of fish and prawns and I think a mussel, warm and yummy.
Also, each item was about 150 yen. The whole meal was no more than 1000 yen. omfgwant.
So you know all about cat cafés yeah? They're old hat now. Owl cafés. They're the thing now. This one street had three women with owls advertising their cafés.
Gosh he was pretty, though.
We waved Evelyn goodbye and headed off to the Edo-Tokyo Museum for the afternoon. The museum is all about the history of Tokyo back through when it was called Edo. Somehow I've managed to keep the Japanese brochure and lose the English, but oh well, I still have my notes. This is a famous bridge somewhere in Tokyo that they've recreated inside the museum, just to give you an idea of the size of this place.
Japan is very, very good at miniatures. Every temple or castle or monument that we'd been to that had burnt down and been rebuilt had a miniature of its previous iteration(s). The Edo-Tokyo Museum was FULL of miniatures of the city at various points in its history. They're so meticulous and gorgeous. Look at all the little people! You can see each of them have their own little story--the guy with his big baskets over his shoulders. One on the bridge with a giant box on his back. Two people leaning on the railing looking at the boats. They're incredible.
We were both taking photos of this one trying to make it look like a real gate. MINIATURE. The DETAIL omg it was amazing.
More of that same model.
And the gardens around the back! On the left you can see the beginnings of the works in progress, so they're not done yet!
Travelling like the nobility did. I know, massive tall gaijin, but this thing felt small and uncomfortable even for a Japanese person.
Bunch of little houses done up like they were back in... whatever period we're up to here. This'd be the entire house.
Print making! Showing the plates and how each of them was layered up.
And the final piece. The impression I get is that this was a genuine print from back then.
And behind us was a print shop! Socute. (not a miniature, btw. I feel that's worth mentioning.)
This market scene WAS a miniature.
I forget what this was for. Some festival they used to do in Tokyo with floats on top of which was either a person or a statue. We never quite figured it out. Indications were that it was a person, until...
...There's just no way. This thing was, like, 6m tall, tiny wheel-base, wooden wheels over rickety cobbles... there's just no way, dude.
Another miniature! With that bridge up the back, and some building built out of paper on the left. I'll be amazed if something like that lasted the day before catching fire.
Over the other side of the bridge. Lookit the little boats!
Kabuki theatre! Such fabulous costumes.
Now this, this is where things get really interesting. So y'know that time when Japan closed its borders to the rest of the world? (Or, and they take great pains to point this out, they were still open to the Dutch and I think one other country, so they had PLENTY of access to the West. Yep. Keep telling yourselves that, guys.) Well, at that point the entire city of Edo had burnt down twice. WHOLE OF TOKYO, GONE. So when they reopened themselves to people who weren't Dutch, in came the Brits to help rebuild. Through this you get some really fabulous fusion architecture merging, like, Roman columns with the fluted roof ends of Japanese architecture. Like, look at this nonsense and yet it works! Idk what that is, I just Googled Meiji period architecture, but it was all this fabulous fusion stuff.
So this street in particular is part of the Ginza district, which was left entirely to the Brits to design. 'Cities burning down all the time?' said the Brits.
'Yeah, we've tried everything!' said the Japanese. 'We make wide streets so the flames can't jump, but they still do. We have fire brigades, everyone has a water bucket in their home, everything!'
'Well, we know a little something of that. That happened to us once a few centuries back. Come, let us show you how to build a city that doesn't burn down. We call this a brick. See how it doesn't burn!'
'Oooooh~' said the Japanese, 'We like it. Here, have the Ginza district, build us a city that won't burn down!'
And so they did, and Ginza became known as Bricktown, because holy shit it's not built from paper and kindling. BUILDINGS MADE OF BAKED CLAY? MADNESS!
As tends to happen in Tokyo, a fire happened and, once again, razed most of the city to the ground. Bricktown stayed strong! Bit blackened around the edges, but otherwise fine. Hooray! Thank you, Brits, for your jolly good work in making buildings that don't burn down!
Except then came an earthquake. All the wooden buildings, which had been rebuilt by then because the Japanese are used to rebuilding buildings due to fire, did okay. Bricktown became rubble. 'Oh,' said the Brits, 'We see why you use paper and kindling. Carry on, then.'
That was a lightbulb moment for me. They never actually spelt it out in the museum, but SUDDENLY IT ALL MADE SENSE. This is why nothing's built of brick, because it'll fall down in an earthquake, and it's far more laborious to rebuild something from brick than from wood. This is why everything built since the invention of concrete is indeed boring concrete, because it neither burns down in fire nor falls over during earthquakes. I mean, everything went to shit during the Wars and Tokyo was once again razed to the ground and set on fire and bombed and shit knows what else has happened to it. I am not exaggerating when I say the entire city has been flattened once or twice a century since its inception. The Japanese are hella resilient, you guys.
Sadly this was about as far as we got because closing time was upon us. We raced through WW1 and WWII, caught a glimpse down past security personnel wanting to go home of some fabulous 1950s stuff, but that was all we could see, which was a real shame. This museum was fascinating. Idk about you but we got bugger-all Japanese history at school. The most I learned was from my year 12 art theory assignment, which we had to assign ourselves, so I chose to research how ancient Japanese art had influenced modern manga, because I was a weeboo 17-year-old. But yeah. That was it. I learned so much at this place, and the miniatures were gorgeous. There's just something about seeing how a country teaches its own people about its own history. It's different from when, say, there's an exhibition at the Art Gallery of SA of Meiji period arts.
So we skipped the 50s through noughties and AKIHABARA BY NIGHT. THIS is what I think of when I think Tokyo.
Why even are there streetlights. The buildings alone make the streets as bright as day. It's kind of surreal, having the street so bright and the buildings GLARING and flashing and alive, and then pitch black sky.
My insta of this scene conveniently had a train on the railway line there, just to be completely Tokyo XD But you see what I mean about the traffic? Footpaths are PACKED with people, it was only about, idk, 7-8pm here, but there's one car there. One.
Akihabara, btw, is boob-doujinshi central. We went in brief search of some yaoi-doujin, after going up four levels of omgboobs, finally one level that had some Yuri!!! on ICE, but it was thin on the ground. Also maid cafés, with the poor girls standing on the footpath freezing their tiny Japanese titties off while advertising their cafés. The Gundam Café with a line-up out the door, around the block, and around the next block, so we opted for no. Heaps of merch for dude-animé, basically. It was pretty awesome.
Night-time magnolia! These were all along the street and very pretty. Also they were living live flowers in bloom and looking like spring, so I needed a photo.
MARIO KART. Omfg Tokyo, stop it (no don't). So this has a little bit of backstory, which goes back to Odaiba, the weird island with New York and Pokémon walk and Renaissance Italy. We spotted some guys there dressed up as Mario, Luiji, Yoshi and other Mario characters. Later, after walking through the Toyota Experience in search of a loo, we saw some go karts parked down where they had some sort of race-track that may or may not have been for kids, we couldn't tell. It could have been a car park. It wasn't until THIS MOMENT, as I was taking my photo of night-time magnolia, that we made the connection. You can hardly tell here because I was set up for the much lower light of the magnolia, but lucky I had the camera out at all! Oh look Hugh Jackman did it better. Bless ♥
WHAT IS JAPAN.
Yodobashi Camera. The techy males of my family would have been most miffed if I hadn't taken a photo of this place, at least. This is their dream store. Ten storeys of electronics. The building doesn't even fit in the frame, and this was but one building on the street of electronics.
Dinner was in one of the shopping centres which seems to be just an entire building of food court, and yet you still have to queue. You think the Poms are good at queuing? Try Tokyo. They'll queue out the door for Macca's. So we got kitsune udon! Which is udon with sweetened, deep fried tofu on top. It was in a MASSIVE bowl and I could barely finish it, but finish it I did!
The owl at Ikebukuro station. You'll remember I said Ikebukuro station is the size of the Adelaide CBD, so when people say 'meet at the station' they meet at the owl. You can see a bunch of people crowded around it here on their phones, waiting for friends to rock up. In Adelaide we meet at the Malls Balls. Why an owl? Because 'owl' in Japanese is 'Fukuro', so this is the Ikefukuro of Ikebukuro! I wanted to get a stuffed owl for a souvenir of Ikebukuro but I never spotted any kitch souvenir shops that would have such things. Animé toys galore, but no kitch tourist shops.
Then back to Family Inn Saiko for bed. Such long days in Tokyo, but it really is a city you have to see at night. THE NEON. It is awesome.
First up, most important part of the whole holiday, The Handbag Saga came to its happy conclusion: Cassie was reunited with the overnight-shipped handbag, still with everything including cash in-tact. OH HAPPY DAY. Omfg it was such a relief.
Around the suburban streets of Ikebukuro, the suburb where our hotel was. Note the teenytiny street, MASSES of power lines, complete lack of cars but at least four bikes in just that one shot, and the vending machine. Also they're not skyscrapers. I just realise I never took a photo of our roadside shrine D:
En route to the Asakusa Shrine, we stopped to get another crèpe from a place with about 300 different options, no exaggeration, and a hell of a queue, though every eatery in Tokyo has that, including Macca's, so whatever. I had raspberry. It was amazing. This here is right outside the shrine--the entrance is just behind the tree on the left.
This is not Tokyo Tower, but the Tokyo Skytree, which is about twice the height of the Eiffel Tower. Also blue sky again! Didn't last. It never seems to in Japan, always gets cloudy/rainy by the afternoon.
It was a public holiday that Monday, so the shrine was PACKED. Luckily I am stupid-toll-u gaijin and can see over everyone's heads.
Giant lantern at the gate to the shrine.
LOOK IT'S SPRING SEE ALL THE CHERRY BLOSSOMS it was fake. So this is the street of shops leading up to the shrine itself that you can see right at the end. Featuring Cassie in the blue coat, and her friend from uni next to her, Evelyn, who accompanied us for lunch.
Down towards the second gate at the other end of the shops.
I swear the gates could be shrines in their own right sometimes.
And Senso-ji itself!
Senso-ji is big on the massive giant lanterns for some reason.
Paintings on the ceiling inside, featuring a dragon!
Asakusa Shrine, right alongside the temple. Or possibly part of the same grounds. Shinto and Buddhism are so hip and groovy with each other. Why can't other religions live this way?
Also just to the left were festival food stalls, which of course meant dango. There was also a stall selling chocolate dipped bananas, so of course I had one of them, too X9 We then spent some time just wandering around the Asakusa district, completely aimless, just looking at shops and sights and whatever came up, taking photos in random stick-your-face-here things, as you do in Japan (these things are EVERYWHERE I cannot overstate this). We sorta got lost? I mean, we attempted to, but there's really only so lost you can get when on foot and with Google in your pocket. But it really was just a case of 'let's turn left here!' 'Okay!' and see what came of it. And thennnn lunch!
KAPPA SUSHI. IT WAS SO COOL. Sushi trains for us (and I assume the rest of the Western world, but just in case) are a conveyor belt that goes around in a circle, with the chefs in the middle who just whack on a plate whatever they feel like and chuck it on the belt, then you grab what you want as it trains past. You can ask for something specific from the menu, too, if you like. Kappa sushi was SO techy, as you really would expect from Japan until you've been there for two weeks and realise half the places don't even take a credit card.
So Kappa Sushi has a touch screen in front of you and you pick what you want from the menu, handily enough with English. They make it up out the back, stick it on the conveyor belt, and it WHIZZES out from the kitchen and stops right in front of you. The screen goes 'bing!' and tells you your dish has arrived, then says 'thank you' when you pick it up. ashdhgghlkjasd Japaaaaaan.
So here we have most of what I ordered? I think I got one or two more. Like I realised at this point that I hadn't gotten any actual sushi rolls. Down the front, three grades of tuna nigiri; in the middle, aburi salmon (my favourite thing from Sushi Train so I HAD to try it in Japan. Salmon with mayonnaise and blowtorched to just sear the very top of it. Happy to say Sushi Train matches up) and... I think it was squid but it kinda looks more like octopus, with cracked pepper; up the back, ships with salmon roe and cucumber, and sea urchin! I've only 'had' sea urchin once before, when Mum found it at the Central Markets, having heard it's supposed to taste like the sea. That one smelt like badly off seafood, because it was, so we didn't eat it. THIS ONE was so fresh and creamy and yes, tasted like the sea. Mum was most jealous X3 On the left, I forget the proper name for it (I'll let Cassie chip in then update this) but it's basically seafood custard--bits of fish and prawns and I think a mussel, warm and yummy.
Also, each item was about 150 yen. The whole meal was no more than 1000 yen. omfgwant.
So you know all about cat cafés yeah? They're old hat now. Owl cafés. They're the thing now. This one street had three women with owls advertising their cafés.
Gosh he was pretty, though.
We waved Evelyn goodbye and headed off to the Edo-Tokyo Museum for the afternoon. The museum is all about the history of Tokyo back through when it was called Edo. Somehow I've managed to keep the Japanese brochure and lose the English, but oh well, I still have my notes. This is a famous bridge somewhere in Tokyo that they've recreated inside the museum, just to give you an idea of the size of this place.
Japan is very, very good at miniatures. Every temple or castle or monument that we'd been to that had burnt down and been rebuilt had a miniature of its previous iteration(s). The Edo-Tokyo Museum was FULL of miniatures of the city at various points in its history. They're so meticulous and gorgeous. Look at all the little people! You can see each of them have their own little story--the guy with his big baskets over his shoulders. One on the bridge with a giant box on his back. Two people leaning on the railing looking at the boats. They're incredible.
We were both taking photos of this one trying to make it look like a real gate. MINIATURE. The DETAIL omg it was amazing.
More of that same model.
And the gardens around the back! On the left you can see the beginnings of the works in progress, so they're not done yet!
Travelling like the nobility did. I know, massive tall gaijin, but this thing felt small and uncomfortable even for a Japanese person.
Bunch of little houses done up like they were back in... whatever period we're up to here. This'd be the entire house.
Print making! Showing the plates and how each of them was layered up.
And the final piece. The impression I get is that this was a genuine print from back then.
And behind us was a print shop! Socute. (not a miniature, btw. I feel that's worth mentioning.)
This market scene WAS a miniature.
I forget what this was for. Some festival they used to do in Tokyo with floats on top of which was either a person or a statue. We never quite figured it out. Indications were that it was a person, until...
...There's just no way. This thing was, like, 6m tall, tiny wheel-base, wooden wheels over rickety cobbles... there's just no way, dude.
Another miniature! With that bridge up the back, and some building built out of paper on the left. I'll be amazed if something like that lasted the day before catching fire.
Over the other side of the bridge. Lookit the little boats!
Kabuki theatre! Such fabulous costumes.
Now this, this is where things get really interesting. So y'know that time when Japan closed its borders to the rest of the world? (Or, and they take great pains to point this out, they were still open to the Dutch and I think one other country, so they had PLENTY of access to the West. Yep. Keep telling yourselves that, guys.) Well, at that point the entire city of Edo had burnt down twice. WHOLE OF TOKYO, GONE. So when they reopened themselves to people who weren't Dutch, in came the Brits to help rebuild. Through this you get some really fabulous fusion architecture merging, like, Roman columns with the fluted roof ends of Japanese architecture. Like, look at this nonsense and yet it works! Idk what that is, I just Googled Meiji period architecture, but it was all this fabulous fusion stuff.
So this street in particular is part of the Ginza district, which was left entirely to the Brits to design. 'Cities burning down all the time?' said the Brits.
'Yeah, we've tried everything!' said the Japanese. 'We make wide streets so the flames can't jump, but they still do. We have fire brigades, everyone has a water bucket in their home, everything!'
'Well, we know a little something of that. That happened to us once a few centuries back. Come, let us show you how to build a city that doesn't burn down. We call this a brick. See how it doesn't burn!'
'Oooooh~' said the Japanese, 'We like it. Here, have the Ginza district, build us a city that won't burn down!'
And so they did, and Ginza became known as Bricktown, because holy shit it's not built from paper and kindling. BUILDINGS MADE OF BAKED CLAY? MADNESS!
As tends to happen in Tokyo, a fire happened and, once again, razed most of the city to the ground. Bricktown stayed strong! Bit blackened around the edges, but otherwise fine. Hooray! Thank you, Brits, for your jolly good work in making buildings that don't burn down!
Except then came an earthquake. All the wooden buildings, which had been rebuilt by then because the Japanese are used to rebuilding buildings due to fire, did okay. Bricktown became rubble. 'Oh,' said the Brits, 'We see why you use paper and kindling. Carry on, then.'
That was a lightbulb moment for me. They never actually spelt it out in the museum, but SUDDENLY IT ALL MADE SENSE. This is why nothing's built of brick, because it'll fall down in an earthquake, and it's far more laborious to rebuild something from brick than from wood. This is why everything built since the invention of concrete is indeed boring concrete, because it neither burns down in fire nor falls over during earthquakes. I mean, everything went to shit during the Wars and Tokyo was once again razed to the ground and set on fire and bombed and shit knows what else has happened to it. I am not exaggerating when I say the entire city has been flattened once or twice a century since its inception. The Japanese are hella resilient, you guys.
Sadly this was about as far as we got because closing time was upon us. We raced through WW1 and WWII, caught a glimpse down past security personnel wanting to go home of some fabulous 1950s stuff, but that was all we could see, which was a real shame. This museum was fascinating. Idk about you but we got bugger-all Japanese history at school. The most I learned was from my year 12 art theory assignment, which we had to assign ourselves, so I chose to research how ancient Japanese art had influenced modern manga, because I was a weeboo 17-year-old. But yeah. That was it. I learned so much at this place, and the miniatures were gorgeous. There's just something about seeing how a country teaches its own people about its own history. It's different from when, say, there's an exhibition at the Art Gallery of SA of Meiji period arts.
So we skipped the 50s through noughties and AKIHABARA BY NIGHT. THIS is what I think of when I think Tokyo.
Why even are there streetlights. The buildings alone make the streets as bright as day. It's kind of surreal, having the street so bright and the buildings GLARING and flashing and alive, and then pitch black sky.
My insta of this scene conveniently had a train on the railway line there, just to be completely Tokyo XD But you see what I mean about the traffic? Footpaths are PACKED with people, it was only about, idk, 7-8pm here, but there's one car there. One.
Akihabara, btw, is boob-doujinshi central. We went in brief search of some yaoi-doujin, after going up four levels of omgboobs, finally one level that had some Yuri!!! on ICE, but it was thin on the ground. Also maid cafés, with the poor girls standing on the footpath freezing their tiny Japanese titties off while advertising their cafés. The Gundam Café with a line-up out the door, around the block, and around the next block, so we opted for no. Heaps of merch for dude-animé, basically. It was pretty awesome.
Night-time magnolia! These were all along the street and very pretty. Also they were living live flowers in bloom and looking like spring, so I needed a photo.
MARIO KART. Omfg Tokyo, stop it (no don't). So this has a little bit of backstory, which goes back to Odaiba, the weird island with New York and Pokémon walk and Renaissance Italy. We spotted some guys there dressed up as Mario, Luiji, Yoshi and other Mario characters. Later, after walking through the Toyota Experience in search of a loo, we saw some go karts parked down where they had some sort of race-track that may or may not have been for kids, we couldn't tell. It could have been a car park. It wasn't until THIS MOMENT, as I was taking my photo of night-time magnolia, that we made the connection. You can hardly tell here because I was set up for the much lower light of the magnolia, but lucky I had the camera out at all! Oh look Hugh Jackman did it better. Bless ♥
WHAT IS JAPAN.
Yodobashi Camera. The techy males of my family would have been most miffed if I hadn't taken a photo of this place, at least. This is their dream store. Ten storeys of electronics. The building doesn't even fit in the frame, and this was but one building on the street of electronics.
Dinner was in one of the shopping centres which seems to be just an entire building of food court, and yet you still have to queue. You think the Poms are good at queuing? Try Tokyo. They'll queue out the door for Macca's. So we got kitsune udon! Which is udon with sweetened, deep fried tofu on top. It was in a MASSIVE bowl and I could barely finish it, but finish it I did!
The owl at Ikebukuro station. You'll remember I said Ikebukuro station is the size of the Adelaide CBD, so when people say 'meet at the station' they meet at the owl. You can see a bunch of people crowded around it here on their phones, waiting for friends to rock up. In Adelaide we meet at the Malls Balls. Why an owl? Because 'owl' in Japanese is 'Fukuro', so this is the Ikefukuro of Ikebukuro! I wanted to get a stuffed owl for a souvenir of Ikebukuro but I never spotted any kitch souvenir shops that would have such things. Animé toys galore, but no kitch tourist shops.
Then back to Family Inn Saiko for bed. Such long days in Tokyo, but it really is a city you have to see at night. THE NEON. It is awesome.